Minggu, 17 September 2023

Rangkasbitung: A Blend of History, Culture, and Cuisine on Foot


Lately, I've been thoroughly enjoying rekindling my former passion, which involves visiting both urban and rural areas to immerse myself in the fresh air, embrace local culture, and savor delectable cuisine. My preference leans towards utilizing public transportation to reach these destinations. Furthermore, I genuinely relish exploring these locales on foot. Engaging in these activities not only refreshes my spirits but also brings about mindfulness. Particularly during challenging and complex days, I find myself embarking on these journeys more frequently, as they prove to be invaluable for problem-solving. 

Just a few weeks back, I embarked on a trip to the Rangkasbitung subdistrict in the Lebak regency. I opted for the commuter line to reach my destination, commencing my journey at Pasar Minggu station and concluding it at Rangkas Bitung station, which took approximately 2.5 to 3 hours.


Upon my arrival at Rangkasbitung station, I swiftly sought out a nearby place to eat, as I intended to explore the city without straying too far due to my initial need to satisfy my hunger. After a brief walk of around 250 meters from the station, I chanced upon a hidden gem of a food stall known as "Warung Makan Ka Oyo."

Situated within the traditional market, this eatery presented itself as modest and relatively compact. Even though I arrived after the typical lunch hour, it remained relatively busy. Fortunately, I didn't have to wait long for a table. The restaurant boasted a diverse menu featuring dishes like empal, sate maranggi, paru, soto, opor ayam, and more. Given my hunger, I opted for empal and sate maranggi. The restaurant staff promptly served my order, a straightforward meal consisting of rice accompanied by fried bihun, sambal, and, of course, empal and sate maranggi. I thoroughly enjoyed the combination of flavors, though I must note that the sate maranggi was somewhat tough, likely due to not being freshly prepared. I ate quickly as my hunger was pressing, and there were others eagerly waiting their turn.

Following this, I proceeded to my next destination, the Multatuli Museum, which was situated approximately 2 kilometers away, a half-hour walk from Warung Makan Ka Oyo. This museum is conveniently located in the city center, in close proximity to Rangkasbitung square and the Lebak regent's office. During my visit, the museum was neither excessively crowded nor empty; it hosted numerous teenagers practicing dance routines.

I paid a nominal fee of IDR 2,000 for admission to the museum. I didn't engage in extensive sightseeing or exploration of the rooms as the museum's size was compact. Nonetheless, I departed with a wealth of knowledge about Multatuli, also recognized as Douwer Dekker.


My initial introduction to Rangkasbitung was facilitated through the book "Max Havelaar." This novel recounts the tale of Max Havelaar, a Dutch colonial administrator stationed in the Dutch East Indies, who becomes disheartened by the exploitation and mistreatment endured by the local Javanese population, perpetrated by corrupt Dutch colonial officials and their local cohorts. Havelaar's determined endeavors to seek justice and unveil these injustices ultimately lead to his own downfall, consequently spotlighting themes of colonial oppression and social injustice.

In "Max Havelaar," Rangkasbitung is portrayed as one of the locales in the Dutch East Indies where the widespread injustices of the colonial administration are exposed. The novel vividly illustrates the exploitation and maltreatment suffered by the local Javanese population in Rangkasbitung, at the hands of corrupt Dutch colonial officials and their indigenous accomplices. Rangkasbitung serves as an emblematic representation of the broader systemic issues and abuses that Max Havelaar, the central character, encounters and fervently strives to rectify throughout the narrative. The novel offers insight into the harsh realities of colonialism and the profound suffering endured by indigenous communities across various regions, including Rangkasbitung.

And so, the connection between Rangkasbitung and "Multatuli" was established.
As daylight waned, I made my way to my final destination, Senapati Café, which was a mere kilometer away from the museum. I relished the tranquil atmosphere and ambiance of the café, affording me a moment of relaxation before my return journey to Jakarta. I ordered an iced Americano (regrettably, manual brew was not available) along with their signature "kopi susu gula aren" ice.

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